Stoke Binding Assembly

KEEP YOUR BINDING WORKING FOR YEARS

It is important, if you want to get the maximum enjoyment out of your new binding (and all your gear), that you look after it. Tolerances in production are exact, and this means everything should work smoothly. If you feel resistance when mounting the binding to the touring bracket, or onto the pucks, DO NOT FORCE IT! You're going to break it.

Check for snow and ice buildup. What's stopping the fluid and easy action of the binding? Check for this and clear any offending ice away (like in the guide rail hooks when mounding to the touring bracket). Make sure the latch is completely closed when mounted to the touring bracket (if it is only partially closed, the binding could rotate on the touring bracket, putting it off access, and then when pivoting during walking, you''ll feel resistance and undue force being applied, and this could cause damage).

Is the locking lever rotating closed onto the pucks evenly and easily? If you're having to force it, then there is ice buildup, or it's misaligned, and if you force it... guess what? Yep, you're gonna break something.

If you're applying force, it's not right. Something isn't lined up properly or closed properly!

Check for loose screws (not yours - on the binding!). They have loctight on them, but it sucks to lose a screw halfway up a mountain. Check all screws and mounting hardware regularly (by the way, this applies to ALL your gear, not just our binding).

If you're smart, these bindings will serve you well, last a long time, and be really reliable. If you're careless you're going to break them, and that sucks for you.

Now get out there and enjoy your new bindings. If anything below doesn't make sense, reach out to us at corran@soulwaterman.com and we're glad to help.

How to assemble your Stoke Binding

Tape the small counter sunk M5 nuts under the 4 adapter plates. This just keeps them in place while locating your position and is not a requirement.

Using the M6 countersunk screws, screw the adapter plates into the board.

With the supplied M5 counter sunk screws, screw the discs into the adapter plate, making the micro adjustments for your ideal stance.

Make sure that the two slots are perfectly aligned. If they are offset, the rails will not slide evenly onto the disks.

Glue the foam pad onto one side of the plastic plate (the plate is symmetrical, so it doesn't matter which end.

You can attach the plastic plate to the board using the self adhesive (best option, but it's permanent), or using the two low profile supplied M6 Philips screws. This is to protect the board surface from the heel riser wires.

Screw the touring brackets to the board using the supplied M6 counter sunk screws, making sure that the little side tabs overlap the centreline of your board. This gives your board added torsional stability when riding.

Adjust the heel cup, and toe bracket so it fits your boot size, and centres the boot over the binding.

Open the front latch COMPLETELY, slice the binding onto the disk, set your angle, and then close the front latch. This will clamp the board together and set the teeth into the disk.

The angles are in 5 deg increments, and marked every 15 degrees on the disk.